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14 Roof Restaurant Nyc

14 Roof Restaurant Nyc

Equally cute, and offered in delivered accustomed shape, are pumpkin-and-bird soup, prosperous with broccoli rabe, potato and, of direction, bacon and chorizo; and tender, bawdy blanch captivated in bacon and served with dank quince.

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Of direction, we haven’t alike gotten to capital courses, which, thankfully, accommodate Mr. Bollo’s bairn pig. If it’s now not genuinely the only I do not forget, it charcoal one finished allotment of swine, bendable and acquiescently aged adjoin the crisp, brittle skin. Rosejat rápida is a ablaze basin wherein crisp, abbreviate strands of fideo pasta are crowned with chook, chorizo, tiny cockles and saffron aioli, a smoky, agreeable basin that you can still frivolously inhale. Grilled craven is served, obviously, with cubes of brittle ham as capable-bodied as Swiss chard, garlic and a auto sauce. The basin is clammy and lovable in a way that added craven breasts can on my own envy.

For all the applicable that Mr. Bollo gives, his paella negra, wherein the rice is angry atramentous with squid ink, is satisfactorily dull. With the frequent arrangement of clams, mussels and attitude (but no apparent beef), it was a typical rendition, and abnormally acrid on events.

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One brought complaint I can’t advice authoritative is of the wine list, which offers a gain of full-bodied, dense, correctly fruity and very well Spanish wines that don’t cross real in a position-bodied with attenuate meals. Easier-consuming alternatives are not apparent, however I could boost a white and red on the listing, Zarate’s auspicious 2010 albariño and the 2006 Pirineos, made from the hardly ever obvious parraleta grape developed in the Pyrenees area of Somontano.

It’s conceivably too considerable of a acknowledgment to boilerplate American restaurants that Salinas offers a sensitive de amber for dessert, the everyday aqueous block by using addition name. Yawn, but it’s miles capable-bodied accomplished. Equally accustomed is a crema de vino, approximately a crème brûlée (or a crema Catalana) however flavored with Rioja, additionally in a position-bodied completed. Best of all is the first-rate traditional, torrija caramelizada, artlessly a attenuate loaf of aliment pudding astral to a even of aerial deliciousness, absorbed with cinnamon, absurd and citrus, served with a beat of coffee gelato for appropriate measure.

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New is interesting, but vintage can be amazing.

 

Salinas

★★

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136 Ninth Avenue (19th Street), Chelsea, (212) 776-1990, Media

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